
Hiking La Gomera: A Walk Through Canary Islands' Rugged Beauty
Just a short ferry ride away from Tenerife, La Gomera emerges as a circular volcanic gem, reaching nearly 1500m above the ocean. Encircled by the GR132 trail, this island adventure involves navigating steep barrancos (canyons) that carve into the coastline, promising a journey of ups and downs amid rugged terrains.
A highlight is the Parque Nacional de Garajonay, a UNESCO-protected Laurisilva cloud forest, preserving the ancient woodland that once sprawled across the Mediterranean. Embarking on a week-long trek from San Sebastian to Playa de Santiago, I'll carry a modest backpack, lodge in different spots each night, and traverse well-marked coastal trails offering an intimate immersion into the island's heart.
Day 1: Alto de Garajonay to Valle Gran Rey - 15km in 5.5 hours
Commencing at the island's apex, a bus ride to Pajarito roundabout precedes an ascent to the summit. Though clouds obscure the panoramic views, the descent to Chipude bathes me in sunshine. Alongside an irrigation channel, the trail meets GR132, leading to the rocky gap of Degollada de los Bue, offering splendid views of Valle Gran Rey and the sea. The path eventually descends to La Calera for a refreshing swim.
Day 2: Valle Gran Rey to Las Hayas - 11km in 4.5 hours
A challenging uphill climb unfolds with Teide on Tenerife in the backdrop. Traversing the cliff edge, flanked by the sea and Valle Gran Rey, leads to the viewpoint "Riscos de La Mérica." Leaving GR132 at Arure, I continue ascending to Las Hayas through a misty forest, finally finding shelter and solace.
Day 3: Las Hayas to Vallehermoso - 17km in 7 hours
A lengthier journey begins with a descent to Arure, rejoining GR132 for a cliffside traverse with sporadic drizzle. Crossing Alojera, a steep climb ensues, revealing diverse landscapes – from misty forests to juniper-filled valleys. Vallehermoso welcomes me with its unique charm.
Day 4: Vallehermoso to Hermigua - 17km in 7.5 hours
The day kicks off with a climb to Roque Corno, presenting spectacular views. Navigating Laurasilva forest and a descent to Agulo's banana groves follows. Despite a challenging alternative due to a landslip, the day ends in Hermigua, surrounded by lush landscapes.
Day 5: Hermigua to San Sebastian - 18km in 6.5 hours
The day unfolds with a gradual climb through banana plantations, leading to a cloud-covered Laurasilva forest. Crossing the watershed at 850m, a picturesque valley emerges in the sunlight. Descending through green landscapes and small hamlets, I approach the outskirts of San Sebastian.
Day 6: San Sebastian to Playa de Santiago - 21km in 7.5 hours
Saving the most demanding leg for last, the coastal path involves multiple barranco crossings, offering constant elevation changes. Passing beautiful beaches like Playa de la Guancha and Playa del Cabrito, I finally reach Playa de Santiago, concluding the journey with a well-deserved respite at the luxurious Hotel Jardin Tecina, easing into the pool to soothe weary limbs.
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