I never thought I'd find myself retracing the footsteps of Laurence of Arabia in any way, heading to the world's 12th largest country and the largest in the Middle East – Saudi Arabia.
Saudi Arabia, a nation with a rich history and a culture rooted in nomadic life spanning thousands of years, has long kept its borders closed to non-Muslim tourists, safeguarding its UNESCO sites from Western eyes. This is a land where religious clerics held sway, and strict rules, enforced by religious police, dictated the lives of its people, particularly women.
For 75 years, the Western narrative surrounding Saudi Arabia has revolved around controversial human rights issues, capital punishment, and high-profile incidents like the alleged assassination of journalist Jamal Ahmad Khashoggi. However, here I am, a blonde woman from London, defying expectations, navigating the modern King Khalid International Airport in Riyadh freely, with a female immigration officer whose face is not veiled by a niqab.
In a country where cinemas were non-existent, and music was once restricted even in hotel lifts, I now see billboards advertising Western films, and international artists like Andrea Bocelli and Bruno Mars gracing stages. This cultural shift is especially promising for a young population, with 70% under the age of 35.
How did this transformation occur, and is Saudi Arabia truly ready for global tourism?
Crown Prince Mohammed bin Salman, recognizing that oil revenues won't last indefinitely, sees high-end tourism as a future revenue source. The ambitious Vision 2030 initiative involves an $800 billion investment by 2030 in various sectors, making Saudi Arabia more accessible to tourists. In 2019, a visa/e-visa regime was introduced for 49 countries, and dress codes for female visitors were relaxed, with the requirement to remain modest.
Riyadh, the capital, now boasts modern infrastructure, wide roads, and ongoing metro projects. However, certain restrictions persist – alcohol remains illegal, Mecca and Medina are off-limits for tourists, and gender segregation is noticeable, even at hotel facilities.
If you're intrigued by Saudi Arabia, what can you expect from a trip?
Riyadh – The Boulevard: A visit to Riyadh's entertainment center, The Boulevard, during Riyadh Seasons showcases a bustling hub with shopping, restaurants, live music, and colorful fountains. The atmosphere is reminiscent of iconic locations like Times Square, Las Vegas, and Piccadilly Circus.
Riyadh – Kingdom Centre: Home to the luxurious Four Seasons hotel, Kingdom Centre offers breathtaking views of Riyadh from its glass sky bridge observatory. The skyscraper stands as a testament to the city's modernization.
Riyadh – Al Dirah Market: Exploring the local market provides an authentic experience. Bargaining for a scarf becomes part of the adventure.
Riyadh – Masmak Fort (UNESCO site): Historical sites like Masmak Fort, dating back 157 years, showcase Saudi Arabia's rich history and cultural heritage.
Riyadh – At-Turaif district in ad-Dir’iyah (UNESCO site): A few miles from Riyadh lies ad-Dir’iyah, the historical birthplace of the Arabian Peninsula, now restored to its former glory. This site, destroyed in 1818, holds significance in the formation of the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia.
Alula: Alula, a gentrified desert, beckons with two million palm trees and nature's artfully carved rocks, offering a unique blend of civilization and untouched beauty.
Saudi Arabia is indeed opening its doors to the world, but certain cultural nuances and restrictions persist, underscoring the delicate balance between tradition and modernization.